The end of Gourmet

As reported by multiple news outlets, Conde Nast, the publisher of Gourmet magazine, has decided to shutter printing of the famed magazine, effective with November issue. Needless to say, the print readership, supported by advertising revenue is not what it used to be. Its magazines have lost more than 8,000 ad pages, excluding its bridal titles, so far this year.

As CNN article noted: "The magazine industry is in a difficult position generally speaking, it's losing revenue to online advertising and it's a tough business right now," said Richard Dorfman, managing director of Richard Alan Inc., a financial advisory and investment company focusing on the media industry." A bit of a truism statement, if you ask me.

This was by no means a sudden decision. Conde Nast was well aware back in January of this year, that there were problems with Gourmet media buys and was reviewing its options, according to financial media company 24/7 Wall St. :

Gourmet will probably not see the end of the year. Its parent company, Condé Nast, can no longer rely on the huge profits of the newspaper portion of the Newhouse family business.

The magazine operation needs to go on a diet. Condé Nast . . . owns Gourmet, Bon Appétit, and epicurious.com. Condé Nast simply owns too many titles in this category. From 2004 to 2008, Gourmet's ad pages have dropped from 1,364 to 955, with a 24 percent drop last year. January's ad pages were down another 32 percent according to MIN. Gourmet can survive since it has a competitive audience of web visitors to its food site, but it will have to migrate totally to its website.

The CEO's of Conde Nast, Charles H. Townsend, in his interview to the New York Times has made the point quite clear. Gourmet wasn't making money and it's sister publication, Bon Appétit was. With its wider circulation and more diverse readership, its the survivor of the foodie magazine rack along with, Saveur, Food & Wine and Cook's Illustrated amongst others. Sadly, Gourmet's editor-in-chief, famed food writer and critic, Ruth Reichl, whom I an enormous fan of, seemed stunned by the developments at the parent company.

According to nj.com "The Gourmet brand will live on in cookbooks (Reichl was in the midst of a promotional tour for “Gourmet Today” when she got the news — awkward!) and television programming, including “Gourmet’s Adventures With Ruth,” which premieres Oct. 17 on public television. "

Menage a trois, provencal

“"Well," said Pooh, "what I like best -- " and then he had to stop and think. Because although Eating Honey was a very good thing to do, there was a moment just before you began to eat it which was better than when you were, but he didn't know what it was called”

A.A. Milne

Said quote of Winnie the Pooh appropriately level set tonights events. Miel restaurant at Intercontinental Hotel Boston bills itself as "Boston’s first Provence themed brasserie, Miel "Brasserie Provençale" celebrates the organic wonders and intoxicating flavors of France’s fascinating Côte d’Azur region, focusing on aromatic herbs, lavender, honey and olive oil."

Speaking of olive oil, the chandelier below is constructed from hundreds of mini-bottles of olive oil.

The menu was:

Smoked Salmon Tartare with Buckwheat Crêpe

Paired with Three Rosé Wines

Swordfish, Golden Raisin-Caper Relish, Tomato Water & Basil Olive Oil

Paired with Three Olive Oils

Peach Tart with Olive Oil Cream and Acacia Honey Sabayon

Paired with Three Honeys

Impressions: Smoked Salmon was as expected, smoky and salty sweet, served napoleon style with layers of crepe separating the salmon tartare. The smoked salmon roe was a nice addition and made me crave it more. The three briny eggs were too lonesome and needed more company.

Swordfish was served carpaccio style and tomato water was like a consome served hot and cooking the thinly sliced swordfish. The raisin-caper stuffing had toasted pine nuts, but the sweetness of the raisins overpowered the delicate flavor of the swordfish and tomato. Interesting idea though.

The peach tart was nice and surprising addition of honey ice cream was a bonus. Shame that the restaurant/hotel does not make its own ice creams and has them made to order.

The surprise came from the honey. I've tasted acacia and clover honeys before, but never chestnut honey. The flavor was intense and reminded me of burnt sugar and bourbon together. Amazing! All in all , thanks to Miel for hosting this taste of Provence.